ACIDS AND SKIN CARE

The use of both Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids is growing in popularity in both cosmetic preparations and medical. The reason is their genuine efficiency in delivering measurable, visible results in the skin’s appearance. What they are used for is exfoliation of the skin. Removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain the skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of a facial and during body treatments at spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical (facial scrubs or brushing) or chemical means (acids). People of non-Caucasian descent generally see better results from exfoliation, due to their faster skin production.

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. During aging, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts.Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to overly exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation. Dry skin can lead to wrinkledevelopment.


Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring molecules found in fruit and milk. They have been used for centuries to soften and exfoliate the skin. Alpha hydroxy acids, along with their close counterparts beta hydroxy acids, work by loosening the bonds that hold dead cells together, allowing them to slough away more effectively. The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem



Beta Hydroxy Acids

Beta hydroxy acid works mainly as an exfoliant. It causes the cells of the epidermis to become "unglued" allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. Beta hydroxy acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photo damaged skin after at least 6 months of daily application. Beta hydroxy acid found in skin-care products works best in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
Beta hydroxy acid appears to be less irritating than alpha hydroxy acid even though it penetrates deeper into the pore. This occurs because salicylic acid is derived from acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. Aspirin has anti-inflammatory properties, and salicylic acid retains many of these anti-inflammatory properties. Despite this fact, beta hydroxy acid can still cause skin irritation. Symptoms of irritation include redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. People with darker colored skin are at a higher risk of scarring pigment changes with beta hydroxy acid. In cosmetics, the term beta hydroxy acid generally refers specifically to salicylic acid which is used successfully for acne treatments.

Unlike alpha hydroxy acid that must be listed in the top 3 ingredients to indicate the appropriate concentration, beta hydroxy acid can be listed in the middle or even towards the bottom of the ingredient list because it is effective at lower concentrations.

Earthen Glow Minerals' Acne Skin Care kit (cleanser, mask, mud, toner and moisturizing serum has effective levels of beta hydroxy acids.

http://www.egmmineralmakeup.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=56&Itemid=6

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha hydroxy acids is a group of compounds derived from food products including glycolic (from sugar cane,) lactic (from sour milk,) malic (from apples,) citric (from fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine.) For any topical compound, including AHA, it must penetrate into the skin where it can act on living cells. Small molecular size is one characteristic that is important in determining compound's ability to penetrate the top layer of the skin. Glycolic acid (the smallest AHA) is by far the best able to penetrate the top layer of skin which accounts for the popularity of this product in cosmetic and medical preparations. Glycolic acid lends itself to daily use as a monotherapy or a part of a broader skin care management for such conditions as acne, photo-damage, wrinkling as well as melasma. Care needs to be taken to avoid irritation as this may result in worsening of melasmaor other pigmentary problems. Because of its safety, Glycolic acid

at the concentrations below 10% can be used daily by most people except those with very sensitive skin.

Mandelic acid is a relatively new AHA that is derived from bitter almonds. It was originally utilized as an antibacterial agent used in treating skin after laser resurfacing and as an antibiotic used to treat urinary tract infections. Researchers noticed that after prolonged use, the appearance of skin was dramatically improved. Mandelic acid has the unique ability to target a number of different skin care issues, such as repairing skin damaged by photoaging (prolonged exposure to the sun), combating hyperpigmentation and treating acne, without the irritation that can be caused by other alpha hydroxy acids.

The molecules of mandelic acid are larger than those of glycolic and lactic acids, two other widely used AHAs, which means that they are more slowly absorbed, and therefore less irritating to sensitive skin. Even those who suffer from rosacea can use products with mandelic acid because of its gentle properties and the fact that it doesn’t need to be buffered with other ingredients to be tolerated.
Another benefit is seen by those with darker skin tones. Unlike other alpha hydroxy acids, mandelic acid does not bring about the hyperpigmentation often seen as a reaction to the irritation caused by AHA use, particularly in African Americans and others with dark skin tones.
Like other AHAs, though, mandelic acid causes a rapid improvement in skin texture and appearance, and fine lines and wrinkles are gradually minimized over time with continued use. In addition, it is both an antibacterial and bactericidal, which means that it works well for those with oily skin or who suffer from acne.

The 5 major types of alpha hydroxy acids found in skin-care products and their sources:

Glycolic acid - sugar cane –

has the smallest molecules making them the most effective at penetrating the cells of skin. Used for hundreds of years by people from Tropical lands to soften and beautify the complexion.

Lactic acid -

milk the mildest of AHA's making it best for sensitive skin types

used by Ancients like Cleopatra to soften and beautify skin

Citric acid -

lemons and oranges - loaded with Vitamin C and has the added benefit of being a natural skin brightener.

Malic acid -

apples and pears

Tartaric acid –

grapes and wine used since the Middle Ages to soften skin

Wine and red grapes are naturally rich with proanthocyanidins which are very potent antioxidants that diminish the sun's damaging effects and lessens other free radical, environmental damage. Grape's also have potent skin healing properties.

Earthen Glow Minerals AHA pads is sugar cane based and contains, citric, malic, and tartric acids. With acidic levels of 5% and a PH level of 3.5 it is ideal and convenient for daily use

http://www.egmmineralmakeup.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=57&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=6

Please visit our website @ WWW.EGMINERALS.COM

where you will find hundreds of Quality Natual based cosmetics at affordable prices.

Thank you,

The Earthen Glow Minerals Team

Alpha Hydroxy and Skin Care

Alpha Hydroxy Acids is the family name of a group of natural fruit acids that have been used to beautify the skin for centuries. Alpha Hydroxy Acids work! For centuries AHA's have been used to promote a more youthful, fresh looking complexion by people in many civilizations. In ancient Egypt, Cleopatra used Acids (Lactic) when she bathed in milk baths to soften her much admired skin. The women of the French Court of Louis XVI also used Alpha Hydroxy Acids when they rubbed wine on their skin to make it soft and glowing.



AHA's have been found to be a source for improved appearance and texture of the skin. AHA's work by loosening and/or dissolving the glue-like substance that binds skin cells together. The higher the percentage of AHA in a solution, the deeper through the skin’s levels the AHA's will penetrate and the quicker the loosening of the skin cells will occur. This loosening process helps the skin cells to exfoliate the buildup of dead skin cells of the epidermis. Unlike mechanical exfoliation (scrubs), the skin is not damaged by abrasives or by the physical manipulation of the scrubbing process. Sensitive skin in particular cannot deal well with harsh scrubs and exfoliators. This is the reason AHA's have become so popular is that they produce much better results than scrubs. By ‘ungluing’ the skin at a much deeper level than cosmetic scrubs, they produce a deeper exfoliation process. They are much gentler than Retin-A. They have none of the harsh side effects linked to Retin-A. Sun exposure (always recommended against because it ages the skin) is not forbidden.


What is the outcome of using AHA’s?

From this To this

• The AHA exfoliation process exposes fresher, newer skin cells giving the appearance of a fresher, more youthful looking skin.
• Removing the top layer of the epidermis greatly improves the texture and coloration of the skin, unclogs pores.
• Studies have documented that glycolic acid helps produce natural collagen and elastin in the skin’s cells. This leads to the promotion of a proper moisture balance after the exfoliation process has occurred.
• Optimum use of AHA's occurs when the skin cells on the surface of the epidermis are gently sloughed off without irritation with the help of a lotion or cream with a blend of glycolic acid and rich humectants
• Alpha hydroxy acids in various concentrations are used in chemical peels. The concentration determines who can use it.
• Alpha hydroxy acid products sold to consumers must have a concentration of less than 10%.
• Trained cosmetologists can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration of 20% to 30%. These chemical peels give results that are similar to microdermabrasion - erasing fine lines and giving the skin a smoother appearance with 1 to 3 applications. However, these treatments must be repeated every 3 to 6 months to maintain this skin appearance.
• Doctors can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration of 50% to 70%. These treatments also erase fine wrinkles and remove surface scars, but the effects last longer - up to 2 to 5 years. The higher the alpha hydroxy acid concentration used in a chemical peel, the more skin irritation occurs. At the 50% to 70% concentration, a person could expect to have severe redness, flaking, and oozing skin that can last for 1 to 4 weeks.

• Alpha hydroxy acids work best in a concentration of 5% to 8% and at a PH level of 3 to 4.
• Lactic acid is milder than glycolic acid and applicable to those who are too sensitive to use the glycolic acids. These acids help to diminish fine lines, reduce pore size, smooth out skin texture
• Sunscreen must be used when using AHA's. The sunscreen should be used faithfully and should have an SPF of 15 or greater and should contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
• Using AHA in a toner or moisturizer base is most effective since they need to remain on the face for some period of time to be effective. Cleansers containing AHA are not effective as cleansers are washed off.

Earthen Glow Minerals AHA toner pads are designed to be used twice daily. With an acid concentration of 5% and a PH level of 3.5% you will get optimal gentle results that have been found most effective on users. Also you will avoid potential reddening, scarring, and burning associated with more rapid but less overall effective methods of AHA usage.

Simply wipe the entire facial and neck area with 1 AHA Toner pad following cleansing and allow to dry. For additional skin clearing benefits this may be followed with our Bright and Even Cream. This cream gently fades darkened scars, spots, and melasma using natural fruits.

http://www.egmmineralmakeup.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=50&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=6

Please browse our website of economically affordable priced natural skin care products and cosmetics. We ship Internationally at low rates and use premium ingredients to deliver to you the finest products at the best prices possible.

Thank you,

The Earthen Glow Minerals Team

www.egminerals.com