New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. During aging, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts.Exfoliation should always be done after cleansing the skin. Exfoliation is important for men as it exposes the hair follicles, allowing a better shave. It is possible to overly exfoliate, which dries and irritates the skin. The face is the part of the body most sensitive to exfoliation. Dry skin can lead to wrinkledevelopment.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring molecules found in fruit and milk. They have been used for centuries to soften and exfoliate the skin. Alpha hydroxy acids, along with their close counterparts beta hydroxy acids, work by loosening the bonds that hold dead cells together, allowing them to slough away more effectively. The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem
Beta Hydroxy Acids
Beta hydroxy acid works mainly as an exfoliant. It causes the cells of the epidermis to become "unglued" allowing the dead skin cells to slough off, making room for regrowth of new skin. Beta hydroxy acid is reported to improve wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photo damaged skin after at least 6 months of daily application. Beta hydroxy acid found in skin-care products works best in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
Beta hydroxy acid appears to be less irritating than alpha hydroxy acid even though it penetrates deeper into the pore. This occurs because salicylic acid is derived from acetylsalicylic acid, or aspirin. Aspirin has anti-inflammatory properties, and salicylic acid retains many of these anti-inflammatory properties. Despite this fact, beta hydroxy acid can still cause skin irritation. Symptoms of irritation include redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. People with darker colored skin are at a higher risk of scarring pigment changes with beta hydroxy acid. In cosmetics, the term beta hydroxy acid generally refers specifically to salicylic acid which is used successfully for acne treatments.
Unlike alpha hydroxy acid that must be listed in the top 3 ingredients to indicate the appropriate concentration, beta hydroxy acid can be listed in the middle or even towards the bottom of the ingredient list because it is effective at lower concentrations.
Earthen Glow Minerals' Acne Skin Care kit (cleanser, mask, mud, toner and moisturizing serum has effective levels of beta hydroxy acids.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids is a group of compounds derived from food products including glycolic (from sugar cane,) lactic (from sour milk,) malic (from apples,) citric (from fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine.) For any topical compound, including AHA, it must penetrate into the skin where it can act on living cells. Small molecular size is one characteristic that is important in determining compound's ability to penetrate the top layer of the skin. Glycolic acid (the smallest AHA) is by far the best able to penetrate the top layer of skin which accounts for the popularity of this product in cosmetic and medical preparations. Glycolic acid lends itself to daily use as a monotherapy or a part of a broader skin care management for such conditions as acne, photo-damage, wrinkling as well as melasma. Care needs to be taken to avoid irritation as this may result in worsening of melasmaor other pigmentary problems. Because of its safety, Glycolic acid
at the concentrations below 10% can be used daily by most people except those with very sensitive skin.
Mandelic acid is a relatively new AHA that is derived from bitter almonds. It was originally utilized as an antibacterial agent used in treating skin after laser resurfacing and as an antibiotic used to treat urinary tract infections. Researchers noticed that after prolonged use, the appearance of skin was dramatically improved. Mandelic acid has the unique ability to target a number of different skin care issues, such as repairing skin damaged by photoaging (prolonged exposure to the sun), combating hyperpigmentation and treating acne, without the irritation that can be caused by other alpha hydroxy acids.
The molecules of mandelic acid are larger than those of glycolic and lactic acids, two other widely used AHAs, which means that they are more slowly absorbed, and therefore less irritating to sensitive skin. Even those who suffer from rosacea can use products with mandelic acid because of its gentle properties and the fact that it doesn’t need to be buffered with other ingredients to be tolerated.
Another benefit is seen by those with darker skin tones. Unlike other alpha hydroxy acids, mandelic acid does not bring about the hyperpigmentation often seen as a reaction to the irritation caused by AHA use, particularly in African Americans and others with dark skin tones.
Like other AHAs, though, mandelic acid causes a rapid improvement in skin texture and appearance, and fine lines and wrinkles are gradually minimized over time with continued use. In addition, it is both an antibacterial and bactericidal, which means that it works well for those with oily skin or who suffer from acne.
Another benefit is seen by those with darker skin tones. Unlike other alpha hydroxy acids, mandelic acid does not bring about the hyperpigmentation often seen as a reaction to the irritation caused by AHA use, particularly in African Americans and others with dark skin tones.
Like other AHAs, though, mandelic acid causes a rapid improvement in skin texture and appearance, and fine lines and wrinkles are gradually minimized over time with continued use. In addition, it is both an antibacterial and bactericidal, which means that it works well for those with oily skin or who suffer from acne.
The 5 major types of alpha hydroxy acids found in skin-care products and their sources:
Glycolic acid - sugar cane –
has the smallest molecules making them the most effective at 
penetrating the cells of skin. Used for hundreds of years by people from Tropical lands to soften and beautify the complexion.
penetrating the cells of skin. Used for hundreds of years by people from Tropical lands to soften and beautify the complexion.Lactic acid -
milk the mildest of AHA's making it best for sensitive skin types
used by Ancients like Cleopatra to soften and beautify skin
Citric acid -
lemons and oranges - loaded with Vitamin C and has the added benefit of being a natural skin brightener.
Malic acid -
apples and pears
Tartaric acid –
grapes 
and wine used since the Middle Ages to soften skin
and wine used since the Middle Ages to soften skinWine and red grapes are naturally rich with proanthocyanidins which are very potent antioxidants that diminish the sun's damaging effects and lessens other free radical, environmental damage. Grape's also have potent skin healing properties.
Earthen Glow Minerals AHA pads is sugar cane based and contains, citric, malic, and tartric acids. With acidic levels of 5% and a PH level of 3.5 it is ideal and convenient for daily use
Please visit our website @ WWW.EGMINERALS.COM
where you will find hundreds of Quality Natual based cosmetics at affordable prices.
Thank you,
The Earthen Glow Minerals Team
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